Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
